Thursday, 14 June 2018

Guatemala Beckons!


Hello! A quick hola to say that we’re no longer in Colombia and are now in Antigua, Guatemala for the next few weeks – and then back to the UK!

It’s been a really interesting time in Colombia and since my last email, we’ve had a trip up to the Caribbean coast which took in Santa Marta, Tayrona National Park and Minca. Quiet possibly the muggiest and humid place I’ve ever experienced – just taking a few steps involved dripping with an insane amount of sweat(!) It was a lot poorer in these cities too, which was quite a shock – we felt for the first time we were actually in a developing (or poor) country, and it really contrasted with the relative wealth of Medellin, where we’d been previously been living. The smell of urine in the streets wasn’t uncommon along with a far poorer infrastructure. Interestingly, each of the cities were notoriously on the ‘Gringo Trail’ so hearing English was immensely common – something we just weren’t used to anymore. To add to the mix, there were plenty of snakes, tarantulas and other treacherous bugs to keep the adventure going, though after camping in an extreme thunderstorm, being invaded by an ant army and avoiding termite invasions, I was quite ready to return to Medellin :D! The sea was of course beautiful and the area itself very distinct – especially Minca: this gorgeous mountain town in the heart of nature, where we took the most incredible and unforgettable scenic walks – barely bumping into anyone. 

Me hangin’ out, quite simply 😊 In Minca

The beautiful town of Jardin: colourful, quaint, perfect

What a fabulous array of colourful plants, forming the ‘indoor garden’ part of a café, no less!

How gorgeous is this town?! I could have stayed forever 😊

A fantastically detailed chair that had been hand-painted – another joy of Jardin

A cool and quirky old café/bar in Jardin – this small town was full of surprises!

Tayrona National Park in all its splendour

Me by one of the beaches within Tayrona National Park, which runs along the Caribbean coastline

We’re not especially sad to have left Colombia. It was certainly beautiful and wonderful to visit all the different pueblos – breath-taking at times, but at the end I think the noise levels and pollution became a bit much. We’re especially noticing this now that we’re in Guatemala – even Guatemala City itself with its notoriously wild and dangerous reputation was peaceful in comparison! We thought it was something we should ‘just get used to’ in Colombia, but actually there was something quite at odds in people’s attitude to making noise. There was this sense of ‘this is my house, I can make as MUCH noise as I like’ – there was never any consideration or sense of respect as to how it could be disturbing a neighbour (even those a whole block away!). Upon speaking with Colombians, they all seemed unhappy with noise from the street and from fellow neighbours. Restaurants and bars were equally loud – blasting out music and competing with venues four blocks away – to the point where you’re sat somewhere and can hear music from several different places - but can’t make a single one out! Least to say that we went out of our way to avoid such places – or simply cooked at home! Because of the FARC, I don’t feel people can tell one another to keep the noise down (they could have a gun after all) and I don’t think anything will be changing anytime soon – it felt too far too inbred in their behaviour.

Some final observations: it’s common for Colombians to have an indoor garden/patio in their house, maybe even with a mango tree(!); often Colombians in Medellin don’t feel safe living in the city (we had one friend who was involved in an armed burglary on a bus); Medellin is the only city in Colombia to measure its pollution levels, but then takes on very short-term measures to reduce its levels when they become too high – namely to move certain model or year made cars off the road; noise pollution on the other hand has no bounds with people making as much noise as possible.

The outstanding views from the top of the ‘Rock’ (aka El Peñol) in Guatape, overlooking the tremendous lakes

Some last-minute sight seeing at a palace in Medellin!

Guatape

We’ve been in Antigua for a week now and it could not be more different! We managed to avoid the volcanic eruption from Fuego and after various delays and 3 planes, make it here ok. It’s ancient and colonial, touristy, walkable, expensive and convenient. A great base for our last month to simply relax a bit and enjoy – and get ready for the UK.

Here are some photos from the beautiful Guatemala:

Checking out the ruins, of which there are plenty in Guatemala!

Me in the central square area

A neighbouring town we visited close to Antigua, ready for its festivities

A Guatemalan bus, aka an old American school bus!
 
The joy of being in a city that’s surrounded by volcanoes – such spectacular views

The streets of Antigua, Guatemala

A view from a rooftop bar in Guatemala

I hope to see you when I’m back. Thanks for reading! xox